Harpers Ferry a Valley gateway brimming with beauty, history and fun
It took millions of years and a joint effort by the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers to carve a natural channel through the Blue Ridge Mountains and the result is a scenic gem known today as Harpers Ferry National Historic Park. The town of Harpers Ferry clings to the steep river bluffs that form a point where the two great rivers meet. Harpers Ferry has lived through devastating floods and Civil War turmoil to develop into a recreational getaway for millions of people, particularly those who live in nearby Washington, D.C. and Baltimore Md.
The town has been totally restored and is the centerpiece of the national historic park. Like a lot of area parks, it has a lot to offer visitors year round. But it's particularly busy during the summer and fall foliage seasons, when canoes and kayaks are bucking along on the river rapids, tourists promenade on Shenandoah St., the town shops and cafes are open for business and the park activity programs are in full swing.
Each summer there are special programs, including ones that focus on history and role the town played during the Civil War. It seems that stories about Harpers Ferry always seem to lead back to what went on there during the War Between the States, starting with John Brown's famous raid in 1859 and ending with Union Gen. Phillip Sheridan's Valley Campaign. The town was a sort of DMZ between the Union and Confederate armies during the War and its inhabitants suffered through years of military occupation from 1861 through 1865, according to Marsha Wassel, Public Affairs Office and Interpretive Specialist at Harpers Ferry National Historic Park. But there's also a lot more to see and do here than history, she adds.
“We have people, obviously, that come for the rich, diverse history, the rich tapestry we have here,” Wassel says. “We have folks who just come because they saw a sign on the road and they'd never been here before. And they just pull over and go,'Wow! We didn't know you had all this. We don't have enough time this time but we want to come back.'”
People come to hike and picnic down by the river. They come to take photographs, to paint, and write. It's not rare to see people sitting along the banks of the Shenandoah on quiet summer evenings, writing in their journals and diaries. There are also artists-in-residence programs that are sponsored by the park; everything from writers workshops to stained glass and others.
One thing that is easy to understand is how this river gap has been a natural transportation gateway to the Valley since prehistory. There actually was a “Harper” who ran a ferry there -- Robert Harper began operating one in 1761. Native Americans would pass through via river routes. In the 19th century, the C&O Canal and the B&O Railroad competed to establish transportation routes to the West. The railroad prevailed, although the canal still operated into the early 1900s, until it was taken out by a final, devastating flood.
Trains still rumble in and out of a rail tunnel through Maryland Heights and the canal is also now a National Historic Park. Approaching as an easy expressway from Frederick Md., U.S Route 340 must then squeeze its way through the gap on two busy lanes that snake along beneath rocky cliffs. Three states meet here: Virginia, West Virginia and Maryland.
Marsha Wassel says that people come to Harpers Ferry National Historic Park for a variety of reasons. “And if you ask ten people on the street, you might get ten different answers. Honestly,” she says. “The beauty is absolutely astounding. And it will look different each of the four seasons.”
While people may come to study the fascinating history of the place, enjoy a variety of outdoor activities, meditate on the natural beauty of the river confluence, or simply hang out and not do much of anything, Harpers Ferry has got something for nearly everyone. Including ice cream cones at the end of the day.
For more information about Harpers Ferry National Historic Park, visit www.nps.gov/hafe. Marsha Wassel is a July 16, 2010 guest on the Shenandoah Valley Radio Program.